One of the slickest features of these modifications is the ease
with which in can be accomplished. The procedure involves removing the engine computer and shipping it to us for modification and reinstalling the modified computer.
If you want more than a constant 277 hp you must install a better
balanced exhaust manifold to improve heat dissipation and to protect the engine. Either our Intended Acceleration "Extrude Honed" exhaust manifold or the one that Porsche built for Audi's RS2 car
The Intended Acceleration Manifold is the better choice.
Its polished interior swoops the exhaust through passages that are 1/16th of an inch larger. A computer milling machine matched the inlets and outlet of the manifold to the cylinder head and the turbo, and most importantly, the interior passages are not rough like the Audi RS2 manifold. Intended Acceleration improvements provide better torque, smoother engine operation, improves highway fuel economy, and meets the requirements of EPA Memorandum 1A!!!
Depending on the air temperature, RPM, and horsepower your stock
turbo at times will not be able to keep up with the engine's appetite for air. For continuous use over 300 hp a special turbo will be needed to supply the greater volume of air. Porsche developed one for
the RS2 Audi which developed 320 hp.
The RS2 turbo can supply enough air, but is terrible at low RPM.
Therefore, in conjunction with KKK the makers of Audi turbochargers, Intended Acceleration has designed a more streetable turbocharger which returns much of the low RPM power that the RS2 turbo takes away.
Our "Extrude Honed" manifold and special turbo, if
ordered, can be installed while the computer is being sent to us for modification.
For these modifications we require payment in advance.
I suggest sending a bank check or money order. Call before sending the computer.
- Locate the computer:
It is in the right front passenger footwell under the floor carpet! Here is how you get to it. Remove the plastic trim center piece from the front passenger's door sill. It is removed by prying the center piece upward.
- Remove at least two screws closest to the front of the sill to loosen the sill.
- With a small flat bladed screw driver pop out the circular plastic cover with the two little tabs at the lower portion of the kick
panel trim piece in the front passenger's foot well.
- Remove the screw that is under this little cover.
- Gently lift up the front of the door sill that you loosened up in the first 2 steps and remove the kick panel trim piece that runs up
along the door jam. (Note the trim piece is also attached by clips at the top of the door jam)
- The carpeted floor mat will need to be pulled back. To do this you will need to carefully cut the foam backing and a few stitches
where the floor mat meets the tunnel in the front passengers footwell.
It is intended to be cut. I've seen some carpets that were not carefully cut first, and when the mechanic pulled back the floor part of the carpet it ripped and tore away from the tunnel area.
- Pull back the carpet and remove the two large Phillips headed screws from the plastic cover where the passenger's feet usually rest.
- Lift up the plastic upper cover about one half an inch and pull it downward parallel to the angled portion of the floor. It is
held in place by plastic tabs at each side of the top. If you pull it out too far you bind the tabs and it is difficult to slide the upper cover downward.
- Now remove the plastic lower cover. The upper cover acted like a shingle over the lower portion.
- Remove the four Phillips screws that hold the computer, it is the square shaped metal box, to the floor and carefully lift it out.
You may lift out the relay rack that is above the computer for easier access to the computer and to make it easier to remove it. Notice how everything is placed. You'll have to put it all back.
- Disconnect the wiring harness:
Disconnect the wiring harness by lifting on the metal lever on the connector. The connector will pivot upward.(CAUTION! Do not unplug the computer unless the ignition has been off for a minimum of 30 seconds. Special circuits are still doing things after you turn off the engine!)
- Remove the manifold pressure hose:
Loosen the hose clamp on the manifold pressure hose and slide it up the hose. The hose can be slipped off the brass tube on the computer by twisting the hose and pulling, or remove the hose off the plastic tube. The choice is yours.
- Remove the stock computer and send it UPS next day air (or your choice of shipping) to Intended Acceleration
- Insure it for $1000.00, the replacement cost of the computer. Call (360) 754-1411 prior to shipping for scheduling the
modification. At present we can do two modifications a day. Your modified computer will be returned UPS Next Day Air.
- If ordered, install the manifold and then the turbo:
When you install the new manifold you will notice that several of the studs on the head will need to be shortened about 5 mm. This was necessary to improve the routing of the exhaust for cylinders 1 & 5. Test fit the manifold to the head without a gasket to be sure you've shortened all the studs necessary. Install the 3 washers and nuts that are directly under the turbo flange first and at the same time.
- When the computer is returned replace the computer by reinstalling the 4 screws, and the relay rack if you removed it.
- Put everything back the way it was by reversing the above steps.
The hardest part will be the replacement of the plastic upper cover over the computer. The two tabs have to go into the slots on the top first
- Package up the original turbo and manifold and return them as cores to us. It keeps your costs down.
We melt down the manifold to make the new ones and make earlier turbo Audi owners happy by supplying them with your old turbo.
This completes the removal and installation instructions. If
you have a question please give me a call at (360) 754-1411.
"Audi S4 & S6 130 mph speed limiter."
When Audi first introduced the S4 car in late 1991 as the 1992 S4
it came with an all season tire package with 130 mph rated tires. As a car manufacturer how would you make the car so that someone doesn't end up suing you after driving the car over 150 mph blowing out the
tires and killing someone.
You hire a little guy to sit inside the car to watch the speedometer and when the speed reads 130 he pulls the plug. In effect this is just what Audi did, but they did it electronicly.
Some Audi engine turners would like you to believe that you have to
buy their performance computer to get rid of this speed limiter; however, here is the truth of the matter.
The following instructions will remove the S4 speed limiter. Proceed only if legal in your area. You must use Z rated tires on this car after this modification. You are also morally obligated to tell new owners about this requirement or put the speed limiter back before you sell it. You don't want a lawsuit any more than Audi. Please reread the Warning above. Speed is a serious thing.
INSTRUCTIONS TO REMOVE THE 130 MPH SPEED LIMITER
Under the computer you will now see a piece of wiring with a
receptacle on the end with a plug stuck into it.
The whole thing is held in place by a plastic clip. Carefully pull up this plug and receptacle. This is the engine coding connector. Pull out the plug and put the receptacle back under the plastic clip. Lay the plug on the floor of the plastic compartment so that you can find it when you want to plug back in the speed limiter.
The result of following of these instructions can be read by an
Audi mechanic using the VAG 1551 Scan Tool in about 15 seconds. The coding of the Engine Control Module is 4 which is valid for both the U.S. and Canada. These instructions changed Coding 4 to Coding 1.
Coding 1 is valid for European countries and does not contain a speed limit. (For the technically minded: Terminal 38 of the computer is grounded by the coding plug described above to obtain coding 4. This is accomplished by bridging terminal 1 to 4 of the coding plug)